The jeep turned off the road and was now bumping along through the desert sand, knocking small brush out of its way. I was sitting in the back on one of the long benches, packed in between my other traveling mates. My view out of the back window allowed for the best view of where we had been, and the large cloud of dust following us.
The jeep came to a quick stop, and we stumbled out of the car. The desert sand was billowing around us, and I wondered if we really were starting a camel safari or if this was where they brought the tourists and told them to find their own way back to town. This had the makings of a great movie that would of course include lots of running and screaming and wild animal interactions. As the air cleared we saw about ten camels, with their legs curiously folded under them, as they sat on the ground. There was a cart attached to one camel, and they all had a pile of sacks and blankets somewhat resembling a saddle on their back. So, it was to be the beginning of a great adventure.
The camel men, who were all wearing colorful turbans in fuschia and saffron and long white shirts, sort of gestured that we could just choose a camel. I was immediately drawn to his darker hair, which had a great curl. He was a little smaller than the other camels, which would become a lot smaller when he stood up. I walked over, and it was love. The camel boy said, "you want to ride Pepsi?" and I knew we were meant for each other. (The other people in our group are quite anti-soda, and if you are reading my blog you probably know about my serious love for all things cola. Pepsi it was going to be!)
The leader of this group of nomad camel boys mounted his sitting camel and showed us how to ride the camel while it stood up. It was quite precarious when the expert did it so my first time was a little interesting. Those curiously folded legs actually reveal four joints - one hip, two knees and an ankle. So I sat on Pepsi, while he was sitting on the ground and began the tedious process, which I was sure could end in a big pile of tourist on the hard ground. I was pretty sure this was not how I wanted to start my safari, I was going to be sore enough just riding the thing. However, with a big lean backwards, another big lean forwards, another BIG lean backwards, Pepsi was standing and I was proudly perched on top.
I had purchased a fancy camel scarf in Jaisalmer, and scarf and sunglasses in place I looked ready to trade opium and silk across serious middle east lines. I was prepared for serious camel riding. After all, I grew up riding horses. I even had one of my own for a while, camel - horse no big deal. That was before I really go to know Pepsi!
He turned out to be the smallest camel, but he had the biggest heart. When we started our walk the camel boy tied Pepsi to the back of another camel, and then the boy hopped into the cart - I can't say I blame the boy for not wanting to want the five kilometers. But Pepsi was not a follower, really who wants to follow the very back of camel when you aren't tall enough to see over his rear end. So Pepsi took to walking as far up as his small lead would allow which meant we took that safari at a 45 degree angle to the rest of the camels. Pepsi would walk up right along whoever he was tied to and then just crank his neck in order to stay there. Good view for me, until you could see that Pepsi was going to try this sidestep dance along the side of a rock formation or a sand dune. Great for the nerves!
We made it to the camp, had a great dinner and dancing with the locals. Our camel guide had written his own song in English just for this occasion aptly named, "Camel Safari"! The chorus is just "camel safari do, ku, do, do, ku, do". It was with the verses that his true creativity shines by giving a detailed account of each step of the camel safari - riding in a jeep, riding a camel, we are eating the dinner of lentils and rice and red chiles, the camels are peeing and pooing and farting - do, ku, do... Beautiful music. He actually had a lovely voice and started off the safari with a little John Denver - Country Road. Nothing like hearing "West Virginia, Mountain Momma" in that unmistakable Hindi accent!
The next morning, I asked the camel safari guide if I could take the reins myself, and he just laughed and said "oh not with Pepsi, he no follow directions"! So we once again danced our way back to the jeep, tied to the back of another camel, walking at that great angle. This time it was Jen who we were tied to, and she was convinced Pepsi was trying to bite her leg, which made for a great trip back. Now the camel safari song goes something like, "Camel Safari, do ku do, Ahhh - Jamie, The camels are biting the riders, do ku do , do ku do".
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