Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Hamam


The steam billowed from the burst of cool air, and the heat of the room settled on my shoulders. As my vision cleared I could see the large marble octogon standing two feet high in the middle of the room. Around the edges were the small washrooms where you could have your own tap of steaming hot water. Dispersed throughout the room, wearing only their underwear were the Turkish women relaxing their Friday afternoon away at the bath.
I was given a red plaid tablecloth to use as a wrap, and was feeling somewhat embarrased and yet extremely excited about my first Turkish Bath.
The Turkish women who ran the place mimed washing ourselves in the little rooms first, and then relaxing on this large marble table of sorts in the middle of the room. The hot water is piped beneath the table so the marble is hot. The room is 90 degrees, and heavy with steam. The only lighting are small glassed over holes in the ceiling, so as you view the scene, the slits of light illuminate large Turkish body parts. These women spend their days in full head wrap, and long coats so this Friday afternoon is a highlight of their week. The rest of the time this hamam is co-ed, but on Fridays from 12-4 its ladies only and these women took full advantage!
We had paid for the wash and the massage in full decadent expectation. So after relaxing for way too long - we had to take a Pepsi break before passing out from the heat - we got our scrub. Clad only in your underwear, which we forgot!, you lay down on a bench sort of thing and brace yourself. The Turkish woman comes over with a loofah, made of steel wool - or almost, and gets started. Forhead, neck, chest, stomach, rear end, any and ALL skin gets a wash. After this was over, I looked around my bench and thought that her loofah must be coming apart because their were small bits of wool or yarn or something laying all around me. When I looked at her cloth I realized it was white, and wouldn't make these kind of bits. This must be dead skin! Well, after three months of improper showers, what did I expect?
The olive oil massage was wonderful, but too brief. She washed my hair as well, and apparently the birds nest look is popular in Turkey because only when my hair was one big tangled mess did she stop!
After a bit more relaxing it was about four o'clock and time to go. I'd lost a bit of skin, and some dignity - but I'm thinking of opening a bath at home. Come on every Friday in the steam room, with a little massage, hanging out naked with all your friends - no better way to start the weekend!

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