Rila Monastery

From Sophia, the capital of Bulgaria, we took a couple buses into the mountains to reach the monastery at Rila. The snow capped mountains all around, covered in newly leafed spring trees, and the red brick exterior of the building made a beautiful contrast. The monastery was wedged into the valley, next to the river. Inside the monastery walls the church fills up almost all of the inner courtyard, jutting up against the mountain backdrop.
It was an amazing site to set through the first archway and take this whole scene in. We checked into the monastery as we were to bunk with the monks for the evening. The monastery has 300 beds, and is not too full, so there is lots of extra room for guests. Our sparse and freezing cold room had a nice "shed your earthly possessions" feel to it.
We walked around the little area and met up with our 11 year old friend from the bus, Hristo. Apparently his mom comes quite frequently to the monastery to pray, and he tags along. He just hangs out around the courtyard talking, in his excellent English, to anyone who is there. Over the next two days he showed us all the secret places, best photo spots, and interesting historical facts. He was the cutest little thing, with his shaved head. He said the monastery was his favorite place in Bulgaria. I asked him why, and he stumbled over some English for a while, and then just rested his hand over his heart, and said, "my soul".
We found some great hiking trails in the area, and ate our picnic lunch overlooking another valley, and the highest peak in the area. We also found the Bulgarian doughnuts, like beignets - only 15 leva, we can afford that! All in all Rila was quite a find, and our night with the monks and Hristo was a great Bulgarian day!

Plovdiv

After our night train, and exciting border crossing we arrived in Plovdiv moving a little slower. We decided to drop off our stuff and then climb this hill, at the top is the Soviet Liberation monument. Death to Fascism! We wanted to check out the town, and get our bearings. At the top we could see all around, and the views of the surrounding mountain ranges were nice. There was a little old man up there, and I was impressed with his hiking skills, as I was a little winded! He started talking to us, asking if we were Romanian, German, Russian? He didn't speak any English, but was more than happy to chat along in Bulgarian. We just laughed and shrugged. Then Ann remembered that Jen had been carrying along a Point-It book for our whole trip, and we'd never had need to use it. It is a little flip book with pictures of everything, so that you can "point" to whatever you need. So, from the map in the back we sort of explained that we were American. He was so happy, and just wanted to keep on talking. We're not sure of the conversation, but somehow we came up with the fact that he was a professor and his friend was an electrical engineer. They pointed out all the other things in Plovdiv, and gave us lots of other information. I practiced a little Bulgarian, hello and thank you, and got some pronunciation tips.
We shook hands and said goodbye, and congratulated ourselves for finally making it off the Lonely Planet track!

Bulgaria or Bust

Our last day in Istanbul we had a little run in with the hostel owner over payment, and seeing as how we needed to store our luggage there for the day we let his rude attitude slide and paid the extra 6 lira, which is like two meals, if you're on our budget! We visited the Aya Sophia and then the Blue Mosque - in that order as to avoid the huge Carnival Cruise crowds that had descended on the Hippodrome for the day. Gorgeous morning, great lunch, we walked along the Bosphorus in the afternoon and watched the fisherman and their 10 fishing poles lined up on the bridge.
That evening we arrived back at the hostel to collect our things, use their bathrooms before our overnight train. I went to grab my medicine, which I take every night, and realized I had left it on the bed that morning. So, I woke up the woman sleeping in that bed, and no medicine. So, I breathed a sigh of reluctance, knowing that I would have to talk to my best friend at the desk.
I first asked if anyone, the cleaning lady, had found a red pill bottle that morning.
No.
Are you sure because I know I left it on the bed?
No. She said nothing.
Well, do you have any advice for me, how to go about finding it, what do people here do if they lose things?
Buy new.
A deep breath, to remain calm, and I started again with, "Well, if I were going home that would be a great option, however, I will be on the road for another three months, and need this medicine."
I don't know.
Is there a place she might have set things if she had found them?
NO.
Nowhere, no other options?
Okay, I'll call her.
Success! I was making progress. He dialed the phone, and asked a question, but speaking absolutely no Turkish, he was probably asking his friend what time to meet him at the bar that night.
He hung up the phone and said, "She threw it out."
What, threw it out? Why?
You left, she threw it out. He said with even more disgust.
Well, where is the trash? Is it still here?
Now, he looked at me like I was really crazy, but the seriousness of the situation was starting to sink in.
Its out on the street.
Jen and Ann had been listening from the next room, and immediately sprung into action. We all three ran to the street and saw two black plastic bags. When the reality of digging through the trash sunk in, I said, no way - I'll buy new.
But, Jen and Ann had the bag open and on the street before I could protest.
Within a few minutes, the tell-tale red Target bottle was recovered! Thank you Jen and Ann and thank you Target!
With only 30 minutes to get to our train, we were suited up with bags and off on the run. A walk which had previously taken 30 minutes without gear now took 15!
We made our train, cute little three person berth and were off.
We arrived at the Turkish border at 3 am, and were thrown off the train to get our passports stamped. One hour in the cold, and entertained by a crazy Turk getting slapped around by the police, we were exited and back on the train. That is the hardest earned stamp in my passport!

Istanbul

Istanbul was fantastic! I saw the Blue Mosque, Aya Sophia, Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar. The weather was fantastic, so we just spent two days walking around. Eating great kebabs, and pide (Turkish pizza). Shopping for rugs, which of course we can't carry, but are beautiful.
Istanbul is the only city that spans two continents, Europe and Asia. The city has a great spice, the sophistication of Europe and the food and prices of Asia. It has the history of both continents, so you can see one building that spans ancient Roman times to the Crusades, Islamic influence as it was a mosque for a while and after Ataturk became a museum.
We left Istanbul and Turkey yesterday night, on a train for Bulgaria. Two months in Eastern Europe, phase four of the trip begins!

Hamam

The steam billowed from the burst of cool air, and the heat of the room settled on my shoulders. As my vision cleared I could see the large marble octogon standing two feet high in the middle of the room. Around the edges were the small washrooms where you could have your own tap of steaming hot water. Dispersed throughout the room, wearing only their underwear were the Turkish women relaxing their Friday afternoon away at the bath.
I was given a red plaid tablecloth to use as a wrap, and was feeling somewhat embarrased and yet extremely excited about my first Turkish Bath.
The Turkish women who ran the place mimed washing ourselves in the little rooms first, and then relaxing on this large marble table of sorts in the middle of the room. The hot water is piped beneath the table so the marble is hot. The room is 90 degrees, and heavy with steam. The only lighting are small glassed over holes in the ceiling, so as you view the scene, the slits of light illuminate large Turkish body parts. These women spend their days in full head wrap, and long coats so this Friday afternoon is a highlight of their week. The rest of the time this hamam is co-ed, but on Fridays from 12-4 its ladies only and these women took full advantage!
We had paid for the wash and the massage in full decadent expectation. So after relaxing for way too long - we had to take a Pepsi break before passing out from the heat - we got our scrub. Clad only in your underwear, which we forgot!, you lay down on a bench sort of thing and brace yourself. The Turkish woman comes over with a loofah, made of steel wool - or almost, and gets started. Forhead, neck, chest, stomach, rear end, any and ALL skin gets a wash. After this was over, I looked around my bench and thought that her loofah must be coming apart because their were small bits of wool or yarn or something laying all around me. When I looked at her cloth I realized it was white, and wouldn't make these kind of bits. This must be dead skin! Well, after three months of improper showers, what did I expect?
The olive oil massage was wonderful, but too brief. She washed my hair as well, and apparently the birds nest look is popular in Turkey because only when my hair was one big tangled mess did she stop!
After a bit more relaxing it was about four o'clock and time to go. I'd lost a bit of skin, and some dignity - but I'm thinking of opening a bath at home. Come on every Friday in the steam room, with a little massage, hanging out naked with all your friends - no better way to start the weekend!

Winter Cruise

Word to the wise - Don´t go sailing in Turkey in April! Too cold! The views were gorgeous, nothing like the Meditteranean, however most of my cruise was viewed from beneath the blanket I huddled under for four days! The last day it warmed up enough to really enjoy the boat, and the ocean - so that was lucky. But I´m definitely coming back to do it again when swimming would be a relief from the heat and not a death defying act!
We left our cruisemates in Kas and took a bus to Selcuk, which is minutes from Ephesus (as in Paul´s letters to the Ephesians). It is a wonderful preservation from ancient times, with houses, streets, arches and columns, and a wonderful theater!
We´ve almost spent our flight home money on Turkish carpets, but our salesman assured us they are flying carpets! Killing two birds with one stone!

Olympos, Turkey

I've been hanging out at Bayram's Treehouse in Olympos, Turkey. Playing lots of backgammon with my hippie friends. At least when they aren't practicing how to throw their numchucks! And I've read about 8 books. We have communal meals, and so I'm ready to move into the commune.
We leave today (in about 5 mins) on our Mediterranean Cruise. Sailing from Olympos to Feithye - talk to you in four days!

Hair Museum

On our last day in Cappadocia, we toured the Open Air Museum, saw some more cave dwellings, and churches and then headed off for lunch of hummus and pita! We were sort of out of new options, but pottery is a big deal in this area of Turkey so we decided to take a quick trip up to Avanos, the pottery mecca of Cappadocia, because of its location on the red river where the red clay comes from.
We unsuspectingly got on a bus and rode 15 minutes to this new town, got off and the pottery place recommended by our book was right in front of us - Chez Galip.
We walked in, and there is a boy spinning something on a foot powered wheel, so we sit down to take a look. He demonstrates with one pot, and then gestures for one of us to try. I have been anxiously waiting for this moment, so I put down the kitten that had climbed into my lap and sat down at the wheel. The smooth, creamy feel of the clay spinning through my hands is so relaxing. Together the boy and I created a pretty nice piece of pottery.
After cleaning up and photographing myself with my pot, a short little round man, with wild curly gray hair walked through and shouts something at us in Turkish. We all sort of glance sideways and shrug our shoulders. He says, "English only?" And we nod our heads with some embarrassment. He shouts again in Turkish and waves his arms around in the air, and a younger man comes over and begins to explain about this shop to us in English. He says we have nine rooms, the first has red clay pottery, the second and third have white clay pottery, fourth, fifth..., and rooms eight and nine are for the hair museum. What? We must have misunderstood. English is not as widespread and competent in Turkey as it has been other places. In fact most people as us if we are from Australia? New Zealand? England? Canada? and then they start over. We finally have to say "America, USA". It is a nice change of pace, but does make for comical conversations.
We walked through a few rooms of pottery, not very interesting, but in the sixth or seventh room, the hand painted white pottery bowls, and plates arrive and we get a little more excited - and then our grey haired man shows back up and the fun begins! This is Galip, the man whose name graces the shop and whose charisma defines the place. He notices our guide book, and through his our interpreter tells us with much excitement, that since we have come without a guide he will give us a thirty percent discount. Wow! Then he wants to give us a hand painted hotplate - free gift! Then he wants to autograph our hotplates! Who is this man? And then the clincher, he wants to add our hair to his hair museum. He says this part while pulling out his own interesting coif and leading us into rooms eight and nine.
The walls are covered floor to ceiling, with small pieces of white paper and from each little slip is a chunk of hair. There are dreadlocks, long curly tendrils, straight and long, wavy, blond, black, brown - covering every inch of this long arched hallway. Each person has written their name and address and the date they made their donation to the museum. Some people have even included their picture! Who is this man?
So, we decided while in Turkey - and he cut off a small piece of hair from each of our heads and we have joined possibly the oddest tradition, but a museum is a museum, right? He's even in the Guinness Book of World Records!
After buying a few pieces of pottery, he asks us if we would like to now go see his workshop. Its only three or four kilometers away from here. We thought, heck, this has already been a day for the books, why not keep it up. We piled into his vanagon with another man, and a younger girl who drove us out of town, and then back up the mountain to the Chez Galip workshop. We saw someone mold a plate on a wheel, and Galip painting a large plate. We saw his own personal collection of pottery, and the gated vault which holds his most valuable pieces for sale. We just kept walking around in amazement, drinking his homemade wine from small pottery cups, shaking our heads and wondering how these things happen. Once we had toured and talked sufficiently we promised to come back soon, especially once we had money to buy more things. Some younger man and his friend drove us back into town in his brand new Ford, and within five minutes we were right back where we started at the bus stop, and if not for the bags of pottery in our hands, and that bald spot on the back of our heads we would have to wonder if it happened at all.

Check out all our hair raising photos from Cappadocia.

Hot Air Ballooning over Goreme

1000 m high to 85 m low

The alarm goes off and 5:30, and even though I´m used to early mornıngs, and thıs one ıs goıng to be partıcularly great, ıt ıs stıll early as I´m lıterally sleepıng ın a cave. But, I layer up as much as the contents of my backpack wıll allow and head out ınto the cold sprıng mornıng. We head down the road, ın the early mornıng lıght, eyes barely open. No matter how tıred, thıs ıs a day I´ve been waıtıng over eıght months for, and seeıng the colorful fabrıc bıllowıng ın the aır gets me goıng.
Today ıs Hot Aır Balloonıng! The faıry chımneys, and other ınterestıng rock formatıons make for great aerial vıews. Not to mentıon seeıng one of the volcanoes that helped to create thıs odd landscape from 1000 meters at sunrıse! Our guıde, Stu, and hıs stuffed bear Barnaby made for a humorous mornıng.
After returnıng to our pensıon at 8:00, we had breakfast wıth Habıb, and then headed back out on a regıonal tour of Cappadocıa. We vısıted an underground vıllage created by the Hıtıtes, but prımarıly used by Chrıstıan to hıde out from 600 to 1100 AD. We´re gettıng quıte adept at crouch-walkıng through small tunnels. We have also learned that the word collapse ıs off-lımıts whıle walkıng 85 meters underground!
A two hour walk through the Turkısh Grand Canyon, lunch at the rıver, and then we toured a vıllage buılt ınto the sıde of the rock walls and ın the conıcal formatıons ın the valleys. Thıs landscape ıs hard to explaın, but thınk Star Wars and you´re gettıng closer - especıally because part of Star Wars was fılmed here. Although, Ann our resıdent SW expert doesn´t remember that part.
Tonıght at dınner we met Amır, who made us some great Gözleme (Turkısh crepes) and told us about the horrors of global warmıng and the horrıble Turkısh woman who wouldn´t gıve hım an Amerıcan vısa at the Amerıcan embassy! We got the whole story!
Today was full of hıghs and lows - lıterally.

Welcome to Turkey!

We flew from Athens yesterday to Kayserı, a small town ın Central Turkey. We got to the baggage claım, and ıt was about twenty feet of conveyer belt and then a roller ramp down to the floor. If you dıdn´t grab your bags fast, they´d roll rıght off onto the ground! All three backpacks arrıved - whıch ıs a gıft from God! We´re 10 for 10 flıghts, wıth bags gettıng through!
We were goıng to do a taxı to a bus to a taxı to get to Goreme (Whıch ıs no longer Gorem, Jen´s Amerıcan pronuncıatıon, but ınstead, Gwere´me!), but wımped out and just took a taxı all the way. You know you are too old to backpack when ten extra lıra ıs worth the convenıence! Once we got ınto the warm cab we were sold, as ıt ıs a lıttle cold here!

We are stayıng ın thıs AWESOME cave hotel, ıt ıs really lıke a womb down there. Down a few steps, watch your head, and there are three lıttle beds ın a cave! Wıth a heater! We slept 11 hours last nıght ın our lıttle cave - that may be my own personal record!

We are ın Cappadocıa, whıch one of my frıends says looks lıke Mars, I thınk ıt looks lıke Grand Junctıon, just wıth these extra tall mushroom style rock formatıons!

Thıs mornıng at breakfast I started teachıng Ann to play Backgammon, and our Turkısh host Habıb, had to take me on! My grandpa would be proud because I only lost by one roll! The people here are ıncredıbly nıce and accomodatıng, unless you´re doıng ıt wrong ın whıch case - you´ll be humorously corrected ımmedıately - whıch seems to be my case all the tıme!

Hristos Anesti!

Easter in Greece!
The fact that the Greek Orthodox Easter and my Easter landed on the same day is supposedly a big deal! We went to the church last night at about 11:30 pm, and joined a huge crowd all carrying candles. The gypsies had been selling candles for two days, but we were unsure of the seriousness of this offer. But after being the only blond hair, blue eyed attendees with no candles, we decided to try and fit in! There was lots of chanting and singing, that I don't understand. Then a procession to the courtyard and more singing - that I still don't understand. Then they brought out the fire, which is supposed to have come from Rome maybe - but since the Pope and the Greek Orthodox Father excommunicated each other a while back, the fire may come from somewhere else! Anyway the people start lighting candles, and once yours was lit, you said a little prayer then we all sang a song together, no the blue eyes though.
The idea is that you walk home with your candle lit, and take this special flame back to your house. We walked Melissa, Jen's sister, back to her hotel, then got bored.
It was one of those nights where the bells are ringing, your holding your flame and looking up at the Acropolis shining above you - That is what life is about!
Happy Easter everyone!

Lamb on the spit

Nafplio, Greece is this lovely little coastal town on the Peloponnese peninsula.
Highlights
A real Italian gelato shop - with a gelati master! Ate there five times in three days
Incredible fort, up 999 stairs - good for the legs!
Daytrip to Epidarvos - ancient ampitheater where you can hear a woman breathing on the stage from the top level!
Gorgeous ocean views!

I am in Athens now. We returned our car, so were back on foot and metro.
Easter is Sunday, which is sort of why we're in Greece right now. The bells have been ringing all day for Good Friday. The flags are also flying at half mast. That is either for Jesus, or for the cruiseship that sunk off the coast of Santorini - I'm guessing Jesus since 98% of the population is Greek Orthodox.
We're getting ready for the celebration and by that I mean our lamb is already roasting on the spit out in the street! Keep you posted...

Its All Greek To Me

I arrived in Greece a few days ago after 48 hours of continuous traveling through Dehli, Milan and finally Thessaloniki. My friend Jen's family has joined us for this part of the trip, and so we have rented a nine passenger van to tour the country. We started calling ourselves Team Fiat!
It has been quite comical as all the town names, and street names are in the Greek alphabet - go figure. So we have just been inventing new names that use the American word that looks the closest to the Greek symbols.
One day in Meteora we were at the top of a rock hill, and the van won't start. We all had to get out and push the van up the hill, and jump in once it got going - Little Miss Sunshine style!
Greece is amazing, if not a little cold. We are only traveling in the mainland, and have seen some of the greatest mountains. Snow on oneside and an oceanview on the other - quite a change for this landlocked Colorado girl!