The grand finale!
We made it through the Russian customs on Monday, and arrived at our hostel, by Russian bus and metro, no problem. We met our group, which is the four of us, two British guys and one Aussie guy. Girls don't come to Russia apparently!
We had two great days in St. Petersburg viewing the tzars handiwork. Winter Palace, Summer Palace, the Hermitage. All beautiful and baroque and European. We also spent most nights touring the town until 2:30 or 3:00 am as the sun is still up and it feels like the middle of the afternoon. Surreal.
Last night we took the train to Moscow, where most things are dark, concrete and Soviet! Todays highlight was Lenin's body, in all its waxy glory. Red square with the Kremlin walls, St. Basil's Cathedral and the State Historical Museum is amazing. All very different architecture, with the solid red brick of the Kremlin, the snowy white roofs of the Museum and the cartoony onion domes on St. Basils.
So far, Russia is great. Interesting sights and good vodka!
Friday, June 29, 2007
Monday, June 25, 2007
To Hel and Back
I've recently returned from Hel! That is a small town in Poland on the Baltic Coast at the very tip of a long peninsula! Not very hellish, except for the weather - too much rain, at least if you wanted to lay out on the beach.
We stayed at Mamma Mia's and sang lots of ABBA. Ate some lody (polish ice cream), basically a twist cone sold on every corner. Each of these places is a tarp over and ice cream machine with a large fiberglass replica of the cone in front. Wouldn't I have liked to have been the person to think up those cones!
And got the beach once, and got a little sun while we watched the dark gray clouds roll in.
We had an amazing sunset last night, and got to sit on the beach and watch that slow, northern sun sink into the ocean. It was partly amazing because the settting didn't actually happen until about 10 pm!
Our Russian visa saga comes to fruition tomorrow as we depart for St. Petersburg. Communist mecca here we come!
We stayed at Mamma Mia's and sang lots of ABBA. Ate some lody (polish ice cream), basically a twist cone sold on every corner. Each of these places is a tarp over and ice cream machine with a large fiberglass replica of the cone in front. Wouldn't I have liked to have been the person to think up those cones!
And got the beach once, and got a little sun while we watched the dark gray clouds roll in.
We had an amazing sunset last night, and got to sit on the beach and watch that slow, northern sun sink into the ocean. It was partly amazing because the settting didn't actually happen until about 10 pm!
Our Russian visa saga comes to fruition tomorrow as we depart for St. Petersburg. Communist mecca here we come!
Friday, June 22, 2007
Laugh to Keep from Crying
There are days when the traveling is amazing. Every moment is a new experience and the beautiful views, delicious tastes and inspiring sounds surround you.
Others, you have to work at it. The last twelve hours have been work.
My family left last night for Vienna, and I waited with them at the train station for a while and then had to make my way back to the hostel alone.
We were unfortunately sleeping in a twelve bed dorm last night, so when I opened the door at 10:00 there was a guy getting dressed, but he had only made it into his underwear when I entered! Okay.
The other nine people in the room went out last night, about the time we went to bed, so I knew I would be expecting them throughout the night. At about 2:30 some show up flip on the light, clumsily and noisily get their things together and go to sleep - without turning off the light. So, once out of bed.
Again some more folks came home, twice out of bed to turn off the light.
The last guy stumbles in at 4:30, and gets into bed. Just about then our resident snorer starts up, and the last one home starts mumbling something in his bed and then jumps out of bed. "F-this, and f-that.", he says. I'm not sure what was f-ing wrong because I couldn't understand his accent! Then he starts into, "I hate you. And I hate you. And I hate you most of all." He heads out the door, and I was greeted by him almost coming out of his shorts this morning where he passed out on the couch just outside the room. He slept right through the large Asian group eating breakfast this morning, so I doubt the snoring would have been that big of a problem!
We got up early this morning and headed to the train for Gdansk. In our compartment there is already a guy, who probably hasn't showered in a week, or atleast thats how it smelled when he helped me put my bag on the shelf above our heads!
This wouldn't be so bad, except that I've already been dealing with the worst smelling man in Poland back at the hoste! Take a freaking shower! They are free, and the hostel will even give you a towel!
But he sits down and the smell subsides, another girl joins us and we now have five people in this small compartment, but it will work. Until seat 33 shows up, and her beagle. That's right - six people and a dog! Plus the lady has no control over the stupid thing so it spends the first fifteen minutes of the trip licking my feet! I just kept repeated, I asked for this trip, I asked for this trip!
Luckily I found a more vacant compartment and got a new seat, and we arrived in Gdansk which is a great city, and our hostel was only five minutes from the train station! It resembles a halfway house more than a hotel, but I'm still laughing!
Others, you have to work at it. The last twelve hours have been work.
My family left last night for Vienna, and I waited with them at the train station for a while and then had to make my way back to the hostel alone.
We were unfortunately sleeping in a twelve bed dorm last night, so when I opened the door at 10:00 there was a guy getting dressed, but he had only made it into his underwear when I entered! Okay.
The other nine people in the room went out last night, about the time we went to bed, so I knew I would be expecting them throughout the night. At about 2:30 some show up flip on the light, clumsily and noisily get their things together and go to sleep - without turning off the light. So, once out of bed.
Again some more folks came home, twice out of bed to turn off the light.
The last guy stumbles in at 4:30, and gets into bed. Just about then our resident snorer starts up, and the last one home starts mumbling something in his bed and then jumps out of bed. "F-this, and f-that.", he says. I'm not sure what was f-ing wrong because I couldn't understand his accent! Then he starts into, "I hate you. And I hate you. And I hate you most of all." He heads out the door, and I was greeted by him almost coming out of his shorts this morning where he passed out on the couch just outside the room. He slept right through the large Asian group eating breakfast this morning, so I doubt the snoring would have been that big of a problem!
We got up early this morning and headed to the train for Gdansk. In our compartment there is already a guy, who probably hasn't showered in a week, or atleast thats how it smelled when he helped me put my bag on the shelf above our heads!
This wouldn't be so bad, except that I've already been dealing with the worst smelling man in Poland back at the hoste! Take a freaking shower! They are free, and the hostel will even give you a towel!
But he sits down and the smell subsides, another girl joins us and we now have five people in this small compartment, but it will work. Until seat 33 shows up, and her beagle. That's right - six people and a dog! Plus the lady has no control over the stupid thing so it spends the first fifteen minutes of the trip licking my feet! I just kept repeated, I asked for this trip, I asked for this trip!
Luckily I found a more vacant compartment and got a new seat, and we arrived in Gdansk which is a great city, and our hostel was only five minutes from the train station! It resembles a halfway house more than a hotel, but I'm still laughing!
Monday, June 18, 2007
Hiking the Tatras, Polish Style
We are in Zakopane, Poland now. About twenty miles from Strebske Pleso, Slovakia where we were two weeks ago. We could have walked over last month, but decided to take the long way around, by way of the Czech Republic!
We went hiking today, which considering that the chairlift was broken was a much bigger undertaking than we had first expected. But we made it up to the alpine lake, gorgeous views and it only rained on us a little. Apparently I am just meant to see these mountains only in clouds!
Tomorrow we take to the roads on bicycle!
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Poland
Krakow
We have been in Krakow for three days now, and are loving the communist hospitality. Last night we went to dinner, or tried, but when we asked for a table for seven people the young lad said, with great disdain "Oh, no, impossible!" So we tried a different place!
Overall, the former bloc has been great, but there is still a little too much left to feel really comfortable. The folks here stand in line, with no frustration, for way too long. They are quite gruff and curt when providing service. And would not like you to know at all that they speak English.
Yesterday we hit Auschwitz, which was a day. We were walking through the camp at Birkenau and the wind blowing in the rain storm provided some relief from the heat, but with it came a burning smell that just comes from the ground. The entire area, an old farm, one massive grave, just pulses with the tragedy.
Today we shopped and piddled. Judy and Kendall took to the tourist golf cart tour! Tomorrow we head to the mountains. High Tatras here come the Evans!
We have been in Krakow for three days now, and are loving the communist hospitality. Last night we went to dinner, or tried, but when we asked for a table for seven people the young lad said, with great disdain "Oh, no, impossible!" So we tried a different place!
Overall, the former bloc has been great, but there is still a little too much left to feel really comfortable. The folks here stand in line, with no frustration, for way too long. They are quite gruff and curt when providing service. And would not like you to know at all that they speak English.
Yesterday we hit Auschwitz, which was a day. We were walking through the camp at Birkenau and the wind blowing in the rain storm provided some relief from the heat, but with it came a burning smell that just comes from the ground. The entire area, an old farm, one massive grave, just pulses with the tragedy.
Today we shopped and piddled. Judy and Kendall took to the tourist golf cart tour! Tomorrow we head to the mountains. High Tatras here come the Evans!
Thursday, June 14, 2007
The Family Has Arrived
I have had a huge shift in gears the last few days, as the Evans family showed up last week in Prague to join the adventure for a few days. Things have been entertaining, as they take on Europe for the first time for some and a long time for others.
After some serious flight delay in the US and then Paris, they all made it, followed slowly by their luggage.
We flew around Prague, and then were off to Cesky Krumlov. We checked out the castle and some of us rafted the Vltava river. If you are Jill or Katy you walked the river dragging your raft.
We are in Krakow now, learning about architecture and amber. Judy has already been yelled at several times and it is safe to say she would not have made a good communist - too chatty!
After some serious flight delay in the US and then Paris, they all made it, followed slowly by their luggage.
We flew around Prague, and then were off to Cesky Krumlov. We checked out the castle and some of us rafted the Vltava river. If you are Jill or Katy you walked the river dragging your raft.
We are in Krakow now, learning about architecture and amber. Judy has already been yelled at several times and it is safe to say she would not have made a good communist - too chatty!
Thursday, June 07, 2007
No more stops for wildlife!
We had just stopped at a castle that had some birds on display. My guess is that the somewhat shady man smoking a cigarette not too far away with the large leather gloves would put on a show with the hawk, and other birds of prey. However, when we were there they were all tied to their own stump, the hawk even had blinders on.
As we turned a corner in our car, I noticed the wingspan of a large bird swooping down to a tree, so I slammed on the breaks and threw it into reverse and turned down the hawk's street. We turned off the engine and rolled in, as to be sneaky! We got a pretty good look, before the bird noticed our bright red car (not great for wildlife stalking!) and flew off. But, we got to watch those huge wings power off into the sky.
I put the car back in reverse to turn around, and was watching for traffic out on our bigger road, when I felt the back tires slip off the road! We had already been commenting on how deep the ditches in the Czech Republic are, and now we were about to really find out! Luckily, I was driving so the other three hopped out, Jen without shoes, and got behind the car. We had cooked up our plan of attack when a Czech lady drove up and started shouting questions in Czech. When she realized we only spoke English, the pity and amuzement filled her face, and she also ran to the back of the car.
When I felt the wheels slip the first time, my hands had done a little flying for the emergency break, and in the process I had turned on the windshield wipers. So the girls are all in the back trying to hold the car, and getting their fingers hit by the back wiper. They start hollering to fix it before moving the car. I started pushing buttons and moving the extra sticks on the steering wheel, but all they really got was shot by the wiper fluid! Luckily, we were laughing hysterically!
Because I am such a fabulous stick car driver, and I know special tricks with the emergency break, and because of my great defensive line in the back, we got the car on the road no problem. Crisis averted! And we made a new Czech friend!
Next time a bird's shadow crosses our dashboard, we will pretend it didn't happen!
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Time keeps flying by!
I have been in charge of the transportation, accomodation and activity arrangements for the group for about a month now, and I can tell the stress is seriously impeding my creative side! I can't think of any good stories to tell, even though funny things happen everyday!
So, instead here are the facts.
We've been to Venice, Vienna, Slovakia and now Czech Republic in the past few days. We got stood up for the first time on couchsurfing!
We learned to live like a Hapsburg in Vienna.
I navigated Slovenian traffic like a pro!
We traveled on our worst night train ever!
We saw a small corner of the High Tatras, in Slovakia. Really small, especially through the rain clouds that have followed us ever since Jen's cousin, from Seattle brought her weather here!
The people in Slovakia don't speak English, and they don't like you reading their People magazines without buying! But they do have Dr. Pepper which was an incredibly redeeming factor!
We ordered and enjoyed a dish in Strebske Pleso that was called "pasta with mildewy and mouldy cheese"! Honest!
The next four days are to be spent driving around the Czech countryside checking out old castles and cathedrals. That is the plan, but seeing as how they don't believe in roadsigns, we'll see where we end up!
My parents and my sisters join in a few days for another big family adventure!
So, instead here are the facts.
We've been to Venice, Vienna, Slovakia and now Czech Republic in the past few days. We got stood up for the first time on couchsurfing!
We learned to live like a Hapsburg in Vienna.
I navigated Slovenian traffic like a pro!
We traveled on our worst night train ever!
We saw a small corner of the High Tatras, in Slovakia. Really small, especially through the rain clouds that have followed us ever since Jen's cousin, from Seattle brought her weather here!
The people in Slovakia don't speak English, and they don't like you reading their People magazines without buying! But they do have Dr. Pepper which was an incredibly redeeming factor!
We ordered and enjoyed a dish in Strebske Pleso that was called "pasta with mildewy and mouldy cheese"! Honest!
The next four days are to be spent driving around the Czech countryside checking out old castles and cathedrals. That is the plan, but seeing as how they don't believe in roadsigns, we'll see where we end up!
My parents and my sisters join in a few days for another big family adventure!
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Bowling in Slovenia
Nothing like showing up in the bowling alley to hear great American oldies music. And to know that the brand of bowling ball the world over, is American. Here are the beautiful American ladies having a little taste of home!
Croatia
Trying to remember what you´ve done the past few days - getting harder and harder.
Piran, Slovenia
Very cute coastal town, built on a hook out into the Adriatic Sea. Great Venetian buildings, and good gelato.
Split, Croatia
Shipping city with a Roman history. Diocletian had his retirement palace here, when everything was owned by the Roman Empire. He was the beginning of the end, by partially things off to four sub-emperors.
Dubrovnik, Croatia
The pearl of the Adriatic, at least according to Lord Byron and he wasn´t too far off. The old city was gorgeous, with great gelato! We walked the city walls, where you get wonderful views of the Adriatic.
In Slovenia and Croatia, the locals rent out rooms in their houses almost everywhere you go. There are signs labeling the ˝sobe˝ in every neighborhood, so we found a great on up on the hill, and were able to make ourselves some great pasta dinners!
Plitvice National Park, Croatia
This is a waterfall wonderland! Hiked it for a few hours on our way back north.
Venice, Italy
Well, its Italy, so of course its amazing! We spent the day there today, and felt like we were on vacation from our trip. Had some amazing gelato (are we seeing a pattern?), great pizza, and pigeons!
Back in Slovenia tonight, with free internet, which is a small piece of heaven and home, when you`re on the road. I can´t really check people.com when I´m paying 4 euro an hour!
We are headed to Ljubljana, where we will drop off my friend Kristen at the airport, and our beloved little car, and get on the train for Vienna.
Piran, Slovenia
Very cute coastal town, built on a hook out into the Adriatic Sea. Great Venetian buildings, and good gelato.
Split, Croatia
Shipping city with a Roman history. Diocletian had his retirement palace here, when everything was owned by the Roman Empire. He was the beginning of the end, by partially things off to four sub-emperors.
Dubrovnik, Croatia
The pearl of the Adriatic, at least according to Lord Byron and he wasn´t too far off. The old city was gorgeous, with great gelato! We walked the city walls, where you get wonderful views of the Adriatic.
In Slovenia and Croatia, the locals rent out rooms in their houses almost everywhere you go. There are signs labeling the ˝sobe˝ in every neighborhood, so we found a great on up on the hill, and were able to make ourselves some great pasta dinners!
Plitvice National Park, Croatia
This is a waterfall wonderland! Hiked it for a few hours on our way back north.
Venice, Italy
Well, its Italy, so of course its amazing! We spent the day there today, and felt like we were on vacation from our trip. Had some amazing gelato (are we seeing a pattern?), great pizza, and pigeons!
Back in Slovenia tonight, with free internet, which is a small piece of heaven and home, when you`re on the road. I can´t really check people.com when I´m paying 4 euro an hour!
We are headed to Ljubljana, where we will drop off my friend Kristen at the airport, and our beloved little car, and get on the train for Vienna.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Put Out to Pasture
The Lippizaner horses were bred here in Slovenia, when this was part of the Hapsburg Empire to supply Archduke Charles with stallions for his court. They are a beautiful white, with short stocky legs, and have incredible strength and intelligence. We went to the stud farm yesterday, and saw the mares and all the new colts. However, we were in a group with 15 retired British folks, who only wanted to know what happened to the horses when they could no longer work! Ironically, these horses retire at 27 and just graze the fields and enjoy life for another fifteen years or so. The Brits thought that way okay, and we find it pretty nice too. Retire at 27 okay, done!
I had been telling Lauren for a while how beautiful and white the horses would be - trying to pump up her enthusiasm. So, I read her part of the book and the line, "They are born a dark black ... " sort of threw me! But the sentence finishes, "then turn a mottled gray in adolescence before becoming white in adulthood."
We had a wonderful time touring the farm, and seeing the show. I love a good show! The horses side-stepped, and side-strutted, and stood on their back legs. I don't really remember that being a positive trait in horses, but when in Slovenia...!
We drove out to Piran yesterday afternoon, which is this cute little Venetian coast town. Our next week involves lots of Croatian beach time - tough life!
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Catch Up
So, my last post apparently scared my mother into believing someone hacked into my blog and something had happened to me, so just to clarify - Mom, its me and Im fine! In fact I just beat my friends good in a game of Slovenian bowling!
We have had some great adventures since Budapest:
Eger, Hungary
This quaint little wine town in the heart of Hungarian wine country. We accidentally ended up renting a great apartment overlooking the square of Eger. This place was HUGE and beautiful, and since we´d been sleeping on the floor in Budapest, it was our own Hungarian castle! The owner of this place also happened to be the wine engineer for the Eger Vin Winery, and offered to host a wine tasting in his cellar the next night so we gladly accepted and got to try his 1983 vintage! The next day he gave us a tour of the cellars at his company and at the friends winery across the street. It was a great few days!
On to Slovenia - We spent one whole day on the train from Eger to Budapest to Ljubljana, where we were met at the train station by Katja our next Couchsurfing host. She is 24 and lives in the upstairs apartment of her parents house outside the city and we think she hosts couchsurfers because she needs extra stimulation. She showed us around the city at warp speed in her little bare bones car! She was wonderful and her house was awesome. Out in the country so we got to see a real Slovenian family, and their home! She even took us to a party/concert thing up on the mountain, and we tried a Slovene delicacy - wine and coke together! Just pour out half the coke in your bottle and fill it with wine!
Ljubljana was a great little city with a castle and an old town, and a nice Russian consulate who gave us our Russian visas after four trips to the embassy in two countries. We got denied in Hungary flat out, and Slovenia was much kinder. That is after we filled out job applications, complete with questions about our connection with biological warfare, and our experience with the military. Don´t worry I didn´t tell them I use to be a whiz with a bb gun!
The real fun started when we picked up our car on Friday - a little wagon of sorts, that fits all five of us and our bags nicely! (My friend Kristen joined us in Ljubljana!)
We headed to Bled, where Tito vacationed, and to Lake Bohinj - gorgeous alpine views and great hairpin turns!
Thursday, May 17, 2007
A Mothers Day Tribute
To my dear mother: You have given me feet established in a firm foundation but wings to fly wherever I dream of going. You have loved us but not fettered us to your apron strings. Your wisdom is boundless and your wit the same. Your physical beauty is only surpassed by your internal beauty. When the sun shines, it shines only on you! What a JOY it has been to have you as my mother, and now I call you friend. Love, Your oldest child, Jayme
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Another Normal Day
My trip home from work in central Budapest requires several buses and a tram, but I like living in the country so the hassel is worth the effort. The view of the mountains from my back door is worth every bump and jostle from the city. Plus some days things happen on a train that you just never want to miss.
Today I got on the #47 tram, and was followed by four girls, probably American, guide book open. They were chattering about the difference between a tram and a bus, and whether they needed a tram, and was this a bus. I knew it did not matter, so I didn`t say anything. They stayed on the bus and were talking about that damn statue park. Why we let that man put all those statues up again is beyond me, but at least it was far out of town. I`m still not sure what the attraction is, not too many people make that trek, but these girls were in for a ride. The bus we were on ends, and to keep going now you have to get on the tram #47. Too bad this is my stop, I`d love to see how they do.
I boarded the tram #47 to head out to my village. I had come into Budapest to do some shopping. There were some tourists on the bus, and I thought wow, they are far away from the sights. I listened in to their conversation to see where they were going, and they mentioned the statue park. I chuckled to myself, all we wanted to do was get those bad reminder statues down, and now people come from all over to see our trash basically. I wasn`t sure how they were going to get there from the tram though. At the end of the line, just a few stops down, I was passing these girls on the tracks, when I heard, "Do you speak English?". Okay, I wanted to get home but these poor girls were in trouble! I walked them across the square and down to the bus stop. I thought they needed bus 3, until they could connect to #50, but I confirmed this with another Hungarian woman at the stop. I showed them on the sign and the map what they wanted and told them where to get off - I hope they make it. I told them to take the red bus to the yellow bus home, that will be much faster. I don`t know who told them to take this route but it was bad information.
I drive route 50 from the mall out into the country and then back to the shopping mall. Mostly I just have country folk coming into town to pick up some items at the big mall, and then heading back out to their farms, so when I pulled into the station and saw four tourists waiting at my next stop, I was intrigued. Especially since that stop was the next to last and I the bus did was go to the station, unload, turn around and head back the other direction. But, they got on rode one stop and got off. They unloaded with confused faces, but then just started laughing histerically. They started walking circles around the station, like they were looking for a sign, or some sort of information. When I started to turn around to wait at the stop they came running across the street. I knew then they must be headed up to the statue park, nothing else for foreigners to do in this area. So, they got back on the bus and rode up to the park. They got off at the park stop, and headed in the right direction. I sure wish I knew how to tell them the park is closed this time of day in English!
Today I got on the #47 tram, and was followed by four girls, probably American, guide book open. They were chattering about the difference between a tram and a bus, and whether they needed a tram, and was this a bus. I knew it did not matter, so I didn`t say anything. They stayed on the bus and were talking about that damn statue park. Why we let that man put all those statues up again is beyond me, but at least it was far out of town. I`m still not sure what the attraction is, not too many people make that trek, but these girls were in for a ride. The bus we were on ends, and to keep going now you have to get on the tram #47. Too bad this is my stop, I`d love to see how they do.
I boarded the tram #47 to head out to my village. I had come into Budapest to do some shopping. There were some tourists on the bus, and I thought wow, they are far away from the sights. I listened in to their conversation to see where they were going, and they mentioned the statue park. I chuckled to myself, all we wanted to do was get those bad reminder statues down, and now people come from all over to see our trash basically. I wasn`t sure how they were going to get there from the tram though. At the end of the line, just a few stops down, I was passing these girls on the tracks, when I heard, "Do you speak English?". Okay, I wanted to get home but these poor girls were in trouble! I walked them across the square and down to the bus stop. I thought they needed bus 3, until they could connect to #50, but I confirmed this with another Hungarian woman at the stop. I showed them on the sign and the map what they wanted and told them where to get off - I hope they make it. I told them to take the red bus to the yellow bus home, that will be much faster. I don`t know who told them to take this route but it was bad information.
I drive route 50 from the mall out into the country and then back to the shopping mall. Mostly I just have country folk coming into town to pick up some items at the big mall, and then heading back out to their farms, so when I pulled into the station and saw four tourists waiting at my next stop, I was intrigued. Especially since that stop was the next to last and I the bus did was go to the station, unload, turn around and head back the other direction. But, they got on rode one stop and got off. They unloaded with confused faces, but then just started laughing histerically. They started walking circles around the station, like they were looking for a sign, or some sort of information. When I started to turn around to wait at the stop they came running across the street. I knew then they must be headed up to the statue park, nothing else for foreigners to do in this area. So, they got back on the bus and rode up to the park. They got off at the park stop, and headed in the right direction. I sure wish I knew how to tell them the park is closed this time of day in English!
Friday, May 11, 2007
Party like it 1896
We have been in Budapest, Hungary for a few days now. We have mainly been hanging out near the Chinese and Russian embassies patiently attempting to get our visas. The Chinese goverment accepted our payment of 95 dollars and we scored entry to the country. The Russian consular has not been open since Monday so HOPEFULLY Friday will be our lucky day.
Today, I led a walking tour of Pest and Buda. We strolled the Vaci Utca, seeing the National Museum and the Great Market Hall, where we refrained from buying nesting dolls of the Soviet leaders. We crossed the Danube and visited Castle Hill with the Royal Palace, St. Mathias Church, the Hilton (built in 1976 - still trying to figure out what comrades needed a Hilton) and the Vienna gate (only a 10 day walk from Vienna). The Hungarians celebrated the centenial of the Magyars, their ancestors, settling in this area in 1896 so almost every building on the tour was built then. If it was not blown up in WWI or WWII, it was 111 years old. We had a interesting historical tour, even if it was a very recent history.
Tonight we went to the Opera, or at least the first act of the opera. The building was beautiful and the opera was in German, and translated in Hungarian. After some great music, and a little nap, there was a curtain call and the audience walked out. We thought it was a short opera, but enough of singing for us.
Today, I led a walking tour of Pest and Buda. We strolled the Vaci Utca, seeing the National Museum and the Great Market Hall, where we refrained from buying nesting dolls of the Soviet leaders. We crossed the Danube and visited Castle Hill with the Royal Palace, St. Mathias Church, the Hilton (built in 1976 - still trying to figure out what comrades needed a Hilton) and the Vienna gate (only a 10 day walk from Vienna). The Hungarians celebrated the centenial of the Magyars, their ancestors, settling in this area in 1896 so almost every building on the tour was built then. If it was not blown up in WWI or WWII, it was 111 years old. We had a interesting historical tour, even if it was a very recent history.
Tonight we went to the Opera, or at least the first act of the opera. The building was beautiful and the opera was in German, and translated in Hungarian. After some great music, and a little nap, there was a curtain call and the audience walked out. We thought it was a short opera, but enough of singing for us.
Wednesday, May 09, 2007
Are you sure this is my train?
Somehow we booked ourselves into the nice train last night. Duvets, hardwood paneling, window shades, beautiful fluffy pillows! We booked our tickets from Brasov to Budapest, with an overnight stop in Sighisoara and ended up with a nice ride. The only problem being the ride was too short, and interrupted by border guards wanting to stamp my passport.
We got to Budapest this morning, and we are once again Couchsurfing, with Nick and Jaco. They are both American students studying in Budapest for the year, and they have an unfurnished living room! We will definitely be able to repay our 23 year old hosts with some sweeping and dish cleaning.
We walked along the Danube today, checked out the Parliament and St. Istvans Church, where they still have St. Istvans hand!
Tomorrow we attempt to get Russian visas - Bring on the fun!
We got to Budapest this morning, and we are once again Couchsurfing, with Nick and Jaco. They are both American students studying in Budapest for the year, and they have an unfurnished living room! We will definitely be able to repay our 23 year old hosts with some sweeping and dish cleaning.
We walked along the Danube today, checked out the Parliament and St. Istvans Church, where they still have St. Istvans hand!
Tomorrow we attempt to get Russian visas - Bring on the fun!
Sunday, May 06, 2007
Transylvania
Brasov is a small town with a medieval history set in the Carpathian Mountains of Romania. It has a beautiful square, with a great church and good gelato! After exploring here, we took the train to Sinaia yesterday. About an hour back down the valley, where the highlight is Peles Castle. The little town is covered in gorgeous trees and the views of the mountains are hidden because of how deep you sit in the valley. The walk from the train station was up lots of stairs and then through the gauntlet of gypsy stores where you can buy anything from a crochet tablecloth to a homemade boomerang (the man colored the popsicle sticks himself!) to knives and guns! Pretty much a Romanian Target! At the end of this street there was a gypsy man with a lion sitting on a park bench. We're not quite sure what he did with the lion, or what the tourists were supposed to do either, but I think the lion would do about anything that would earn this man a dollar! After walking backwards to stare in disbelief at the lion, I flipped around, turned the corner and up the sweeping hill was the amazing castle. The initial view is breathtaking, the interesting building, which doesn't exactly fit into the traditional definition of castle, had a stunning clock tower and lots of intricate paintings. There were several spires with detailed iron crosses topping them, pointing up at these gorgeous craggy peaks. As I spend most of my time talking too much, I don't often run out of breath, but this sight almost did it.
We took the English tour with our German dictator of a guide, who only made the trip more fun. "These are Murano glass chandeliers, from Venice, from Italy" she barked in her interesting English diction. It felt like she knew how to label each piece in several ways, so just to reduce confusion she used them all. "These are silver candlesticks, they are metal, they are from Amsterdam, from the Netherlands". After being released from the castle without incident, we strolled the town and then headed back to Brasov. Don't worry the evening was not without incident, as we met another drunk Romanian man who English was bad probably on a sober day, but drunk was even better! Romania actually feels like a whole country of gypsies, as they all want something, and just go around whopping each other on the head. Moms grabbing ears of children, Grandpas slapping children on the neck - always entertaining!
Friday, May 04, 2007
Three Snotty Americans
I have made a serious personal discovery on this trip - I am allergic to cigarette smoke! In fact we all have some reactions to the incessant smoking that is Eastern Europe. Smoking on trains, in restaurants, on buses, at the Internet cafe - everywhere! So, we all have runny noses and clogged sinuses, which means we buy Kleenex in bulk, and blow our noses in public (which is not very feminine!) and get lots of stares.
We've also decided that the best way to combat this congestion is ice cream - a good reward for being sick.
We took a bus to Brasov this morning, and have spent the rest of the day discovering this wonderful little town. Lots of Baroque style buildings, interspersed with lovely Communist construction!, set in this valley of Carpathian Mountains. We climbed up the hill today and got a good aerial view of the town. We picked up a map/guide at the tourist info office and were given really great info such as, "Black Tower - Built in 1494 the Black Tower has been blackened by fire."! Needless to say we're learning a lot, no historical stone unturned!
We've also decided that the best way to combat this congestion is ice cream - a good reward for being sick.
We took a bus to Brasov this morning, and have spent the rest of the day discovering this wonderful little town. Lots of Baroque style buildings, interspersed with lovely Communist construction!, set in this valley of Carpathian Mountains. We climbed up the hill today and got a good aerial view of the town. We picked up a map/guide at the tourist info office and were given really great info such as, "Black Tower - Built in 1494 the Black Tower has been blackened by fire."! Needless to say we're learning a lot, no historical stone unturned!
Thursday, May 03, 2007
Catch up
Veliko Tarnovo - The cultural capital of Bulgaria, we toured the fort and its chapel, and saw the great light show that night. The rainbow lights flashing around the fort walls were quite entertaining!
Varna - Mid-size city on the Black Sea, we were about the only people standing on the beach on this cloudy and overcast day. So, we were making our way back to our hostel, which was this great place in a smaller village not too far away, with a great movie collection, and we had to take the bus. We knew the stop and the bus number but not the times, and so we sat down on the bench to wait, next to an older Bulgarian woman with a black scarf over her head and a few teeth missing. She started talking to us rather loudly in Bulgarian, which we don't understand, and we laughed and shrugged. Then her friend, with no teeth joined us, and then they were both talking to us, not getting any responses, they started hollering at us, because as we all know that works - just say the foreign words louder! We were cracked up laughing, and finally we got through much acting and sign language that our bus wouldn't come for 45 minutes and they were trying to save us the wait!
Bucharest - We left Varna at 8:45 am on a train for Bucharest. We had to change trains at the border, which resulted in four hours of waiting. Luckily we found a restaurant serving our favorite snack, french fries with white cheese! We boarded the second train, to be yelled at by the Bulgarian man who ran the train. He was only wearing a blue track suit, and so Jen kept asking to see his badge, which made him really happy. He got the Romanian policewoman, who looked intimidating with her purple hair, and official uniform, but wasn't when she talked to us. She told us we'd have to deboard on the other side of the border because this was not our train. The train we were on was the 1:30 and we needed the 3:30 - it was currently 4:00 - who knew. So we stood in the middle of nowhere eating our Lion candybars, and waited some more. Our train showed up, we got on and an hour later we were in Bucharest - drama!
We are couchsurfing here in Bucharest, which means were staying with Irina, this girl we met on the Internet. She is great, she just bought her little apartment, and we are on the oldest most uncomfortable couch ever, but its free, and we're loving it.
We had to call Irina once we arrived in Bucharest, and at the payphone were accosted repeatedly by an old man with a bottle of beer (on a Tuesday evening) who kept assuring us that he doesn't drink regularly, this is just a holiday! And that he loves America, and that we shouldn't be afraid of Romania because of what we've seen on the movies!? Don't worry though, the nice boy who ran the sex shop just near the phone helped us out!
Varna - Mid-size city on the Black Sea, we were about the only people standing on the beach on this cloudy and overcast day. So, we were making our way back to our hostel, which was this great place in a smaller village not too far away, with a great movie collection, and we had to take the bus. We knew the stop and the bus number but not the times, and so we sat down on the bench to wait, next to an older Bulgarian woman with a black scarf over her head and a few teeth missing. She started talking to us rather loudly in Bulgarian, which we don't understand, and we laughed and shrugged. Then her friend, with no teeth joined us, and then they were both talking to us, not getting any responses, they started hollering at us, because as we all know that works - just say the foreign words louder! We were cracked up laughing, and finally we got through much acting and sign language that our bus wouldn't come for 45 minutes and they were trying to save us the wait!
Bucharest - We left Varna at 8:45 am on a train for Bucharest. We had to change trains at the border, which resulted in four hours of waiting. Luckily we found a restaurant serving our favorite snack, french fries with white cheese! We boarded the second train, to be yelled at by the Bulgarian man who ran the train. He was only wearing a blue track suit, and so Jen kept asking to see his badge, which made him really happy. He got the Romanian policewoman, who looked intimidating with her purple hair, and official uniform, but wasn't when she talked to us. She told us we'd have to deboard on the other side of the border because this was not our train. The train we were on was the 1:30 and we needed the 3:30 - it was currently 4:00 - who knew. So we stood in the middle of nowhere eating our Lion candybars, and waited some more. Our train showed up, we got on and an hour later we were in Bucharest - drama!
We are couchsurfing here in Bucharest, which means were staying with Irina, this girl we met on the Internet. She is great, she just bought her little apartment, and we are on the oldest most uncomfortable couch ever, but its free, and we're loving it.
We had to call Irina once we arrived in Bucharest, and at the payphone were accosted repeatedly by an old man with a bottle of beer (on a Tuesday evening) who kept assuring us that he doesn't drink regularly, this is just a holiday! And that he loves America, and that we shouldn't be afraid of Romania because of what we've seen on the movies!? Don't worry though, the nice boy who ran the sex shop just near the phone helped us out!
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Rila Monastery
From Sophia, the capital of Bulgaria, we took a couple buses into the mountains to reach the monastery at Rila. The snow capped mountains all around, covered in newly leafed spring trees, and the red brick exterior of the building made a beautiful contrast. The monastery was wedged into the valley, next to the river. Inside the monastery walls the church fills up almost all of the inner courtyard, jutting up against the mountain backdrop.
It was an amazing site to set through the first archway and take this whole scene in. We checked into the monastery as we were to bunk with the monks for the evening. The monastery has 300 beds, and is not too full, so there is lots of extra room for guests. Our sparse and freezing cold room had a nice "shed your earthly possessions" feel to it.
We walked around the little area and met up with our 11 year old friend from the bus, Hristo. Apparently his mom comes quite frequently to the monastery to pray, and he tags along. He just hangs out around the courtyard talking, in his excellent English, to anyone who is there. Over the next two days he showed us all the secret places, best photo spots, and interesting historical facts. He was the cutest little thing, with his shaved head. He said the monastery was his favorite place in Bulgaria. I asked him why, and he stumbled over some English for a while, and then just rested his hand over his heart, and said, "my soul".
We found some great hiking trails in the area, and ate our picnic lunch overlooking another valley, and the highest peak in the area. We also found the Bulgarian doughnuts, like beignets - only 15 leva, we can afford that! All in all Rila was quite a find, and our night with the monks and Hristo was a great Bulgarian day!
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