The grand finale!
We made it through the Russian customs on Monday, and arrived at our hostel, by Russian bus and metro, no problem. We met our group, which is the four of us, two British guys and one Aussie guy. Girls don't come to Russia apparently!
We had two great days in St. Petersburg viewing the tzars handiwork. Winter Palace, Summer Palace, the Hermitage. All beautiful and baroque and European. We also spent most nights touring the town until 2:30 or 3:00 am as the sun is still up and it feels like the middle of the afternoon. Surreal.
Last night we took the train to Moscow, where most things are dark, concrete and Soviet! Todays highlight was Lenin's body, in all its waxy glory. Red square with the Kremlin walls, St. Basil's Cathedral and the State Historical Museum is amazing. All very different architecture, with the solid red brick of the Kremlin, the snowy white roofs of the Museum and the cartoony onion domes on St. Basils.
So far, Russia is great. Interesting sights and good vodka!
Friday, June 29, 2007
Monday, June 25, 2007
To Hel and Back
I've recently returned from Hel! That is a small town in Poland on the Baltic Coast at the very tip of a long peninsula! Not very hellish, except for the weather - too much rain, at least if you wanted to lay out on the beach.
We stayed at Mamma Mia's and sang lots of ABBA. Ate some lody (polish ice cream), basically a twist cone sold on every corner. Each of these places is a tarp over and ice cream machine with a large fiberglass replica of the cone in front. Wouldn't I have liked to have been the person to think up those cones!
And got the beach once, and got a little sun while we watched the dark gray clouds roll in.
We had an amazing sunset last night, and got to sit on the beach and watch that slow, northern sun sink into the ocean. It was partly amazing because the settting didn't actually happen until about 10 pm!
Our Russian visa saga comes to fruition tomorrow as we depart for St. Petersburg. Communist mecca here we come!
We stayed at Mamma Mia's and sang lots of ABBA. Ate some lody (polish ice cream), basically a twist cone sold on every corner. Each of these places is a tarp over and ice cream machine with a large fiberglass replica of the cone in front. Wouldn't I have liked to have been the person to think up those cones!
And got the beach once, and got a little sun while we watched the dark gray clouds roll in.
We had an amazing sunset last night, and got to sit on the beach and watch that slow, northern sun sink into the ocean. It was partly amazing because the settting didn't actually happen until about 10 pm!
Our Russian visa saga comes to fruition tomorrow as we depart for St. Petersburg. Communist mecca here we come!
Friday, June 22, 2007
Laugh to Keep from Crying
There are days when the traveling is amazing. Every moment is a new experience and the beautiful views, delicious tastes and inspiring sounds surround you.
Others, you have to work at it. The last twelve hours have been work.
My family left last night for Vienna, and I waited with them at the train station for a while and then had to make my way back to the hostel alone.
We were unfortunately sleeping in a twelve bed dorm last night, so when I opened the door at 10:00 there was a guy getting dressed, but he had only made it into his underwear when I entered! Okay.
The other nine people in the room went out last night, about the time we went to bed, so I knew I would be expecting them throughout the night. At about 2:30 some show up flip on the light, clumsily and noisily get their things together and go to sleep - without turning off the light. So, once out of bed.
Again some more folks came home, twice out of bed to turn off the light.
The last guy stumbles in at 4:30, and gets into bed. Just about then our resident snorer starts up, and the last one home starts mumbling something in his bed and then jumps out of bed. "F-this, and f-that.", he says. I'm not sure what was f-ing wrong because I couldn't understand his accent! Then he starts into, "I hate you. And I hate you. And I hate you most of all." He heads out the door, and I was greeted by him almost coming out of his shorts this morning where he passed out on the couch just outside the room. He slept right through the large Asian group eating breakfast this morning, so I doubt the snoring would have been that big of a problem!
We got up early this morning and headed to the train for Gdansk. In our compartment there is already a guy, who probably hasn't showered in a week, or atleast thats how it smelled when he helped me put my bag on the shelf above our heads!
This wouldn't be so bad, except that I've already been dealing with the worst smelling man in Poland back at the hoste! Take a freaking shower! They are free, and the hostel will even give you a towel!
But he sits down and the smell subsides, another girl joins us and we now have five people in this small compartment, but it will work. Until seat 33 shows up, and her beagle. That's right - six people and a dog! Plus the lady has no control over the stupid thing so it spends the first fifteen minutes of the trip licking my feet! I just kept repeated, I asked for this trip, I asked for this trip!
Luckily I found a more vacant compartment and got a new seat, and we arrived in Gdansk which is a great city, and our hostel was only five minutes from the train station! It resembles a halfway house more than a hotel, but I'm still laughing!
Others, you have to work at it. The last twelve hours have been work.
My family left last night for Vienna, and I waited with them at the train station for a while and then had to make my way back to the hostel alone.
We were unfortunately sleeping in a twelve bed dorm last night, so when I opened the door at 10:00 there was a guy getting dressed, but he had only made it into his underwear when I entered! Okay.
The other nine people in the room went out last night, about the time we went to bed, so I knew I would be expecting them throughout the night. At about 2:30 some show up flip on the light, clumsily and noisily get their things together and go to sleep - without turning off the light. So, once out of bed.
Again some more folks came home, twice out of bed to turn off the light.
The last guy stumbles in at 4:30, and gets into bed. Just about then our resident snorer starts up, and the last one home starts mumbling something in his bed and then jumps out of bed. "F-this, and f-that.", he says. I'm not sure what was f-ing wrong because I couldn't understand his accent! Then he starts into, "I hate you. And I hate you. And I hate you most of all." He heads out the door, and I was greeted by him almost coming out of his shorts this morning where he passed out on the couch just outside the room. He slept right through the large Asian group eating breakfast this morning, so I doubt the snoring would have been that big of a problem!
We got up early this morning and headed to the train for Gdansk. In our compartment there is already a guy, who probably hasn't showered in a week, or atleast thats how it smelled when he helped me put my bag on the shelf above our heads!
This wouldn't be so bad, except that I've already been dealing with the worst smelling man in Poland back at the hoste! Take a freaking shower! They are free, and the hostel will even give you a towel!
But he sits down and the smell subsides, another girl joins us and we now have five people in this small compartment, but it will work. Until seat 33 shows up, and her beagle. That's right - six people and a dog! Plus the lady has no control over the stupid thing so it spends the first fifteen minutes of the trip licking my feet! I just kept repeated, I asked for this trip, I asked for this trip!
Luckily I found a more vacant compartment and got a new seat, and we arrived in Gdansk which is a great city, and our hostel was only five minutes from the train station! It resembles a halfway house more than a hotel, but I'm still laughing!
Monday, June 18, 2007
Hiking the Tatras, Polish Style

We are in Zakopane, Poland now. About twenty miles from Strebske Pleso, Slovakia where we were two weeks ago. We could have walked over last month, but decided to take the long way around, by way of the Czech Republic!
We went hiking today, which considering that the chairlift was broken was a much bigger undertaking than we had first expected. But we made it up to the alpine lake, gorgeous views and it only rained on us a little. Apparently I am just meant to see these mountains only in clouds!
Tomorrow we take to the roads on bicycle!
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Poland
Krakow
We have been in Krakow for three days now, and are loving the communist hospitality. Last night we went to dinner, or tried, but when we asked for a table for seven people the young lad said, with great disdain "Oh, no, impossible!" So we tried a different place!
Overall, the former bloc has been great, but there is still a little too much left to feel really comfortable. The folks here stand in line, with no frustration, for way too long. They are quite gruff and curt when providing service. And would not like you to know at all that they speak English.
Yesterday we hit Auschwitz, which was a day. We were walking through the camp at Birkenau and the wind blowing in the rain storm provided some relief from the heat, but with it came a burning smell that just comes from the ground. The entire area, an old farm, one massive grave, just pulses with the tragedy.
Today we shopped and piddled. Judy and Kendall took to the tourist golf cart tour! Tomorrow we head to the mountains. High Tatras here come the Evans!
We have been in Krakow for three days now, and are loving the communist hospitality. Last night we went to dinner, or tried, but when we asked for a table for seven people the young lad said, with great disdain "Oh, no, impossible!" So we tried a different place!
Overall, the former bloc has been great, but there is still a little too much left to feel really comfortable. The folks here stand in line, with no frustration, for way too long. They are quite gruff and curt when providing service. And would not like you to know at all that they speak English.
Yesterday we hit Auschwitz, which was a day. We were walking through the camp at Birkenau and the wind blowing in the rain storm provided some relief from the heat, but with it came a burning smell that just comes from the ground. The entire area, an old farm, one massive grave, just pulses with the tragedy.
Today we shopped and piddled. Judy and Kendall took to the tourist golf cart tour! Tomorrow we head to the mountains. High Tatras here come the Evans!
Thursday, June 14, 2007
The Family Has Arrived
I have had a huge shift in gears the last few days, as the Evans family showed up last week in Prague to join the adventure for a few days. Things have been entertaining, as they take on Europe for the first time for some and a long time for others.
After some serious flight delay in the US and then Paris, they all made it, followed slowly by their luggage.
We flew around Prague, and then were off to Cesky Krumlov. We checked out the castle and some of us rafted the Vltava river. If you are Jill or Katy you walked the river dragging your raft.
We are in Krakow now, learning about architecture and amber. Judy has already been yelled at several times and it is safe to say she would not have made a good communist - too chatty!
After some serious flight delay in the US and then Paris, they all made it, followed slowly by their luggage.
We flew around Prague, and then were off to Cesky Krumlov. We checked out the castle and some of us rafted the Vltava river. If you are Jill or Katy you walked the river dragging your raft.
We are in Krakow now, learning about architecture and amber. Judy has already been yelled at several times and it is safe to say she would not have made a good communist - too chatty!
Thursday, June 07, 2007
No more stops for wildlife!
Yesterday, we were driving along backcountry Czech roads, enjoying the rolling green hills dotted with red tile roofs. I love that every little town has a clock tower punctuating its skyline!
We had just stopped at a castle that had some birds on display. My guess is that the somewhat shady man smoking a cigarette not too far away with the large leather gloves would put on a show with the hawk, and other birds of prey. However, when we were there they were all tied to their own stump, the hawk even had blinders on.
As we turned a corner in our car, I noticed the wingspan of a large bird swooping down to a tree, so I slammed on the breaks and threw it into reverse and turned down the hawk's street. We turned off the engine and rolled in, as to be sneaky! We got a pretty good look, before the bird noticed our bright red car (not great for wildlife stalking!) and flew off. But, we got to watch those huge wings power off into the sky.
I put the car back in reverse to turn around, and was watching for traffic out on our bigger road, when I felt the back tires slip off the road! We had already been commenting on how deep the ditches in the Czech Republic are, and now we were about to really find out! Luckily, I was driving so the other three hopped out, Jen without shoes, and got behind the car. We had cooked up our plan of attack when a Czech lady drove up and started shouting questions in Czech. When she realized we only spoke English, the pity and amuzement filled her face, and she also ran to the back of the car.
When I felt the wheels slip the first time, my hands had done a little flying for the emergency break, and in the process I had turned on the windshield wipers. So the girls are all in the back trying to hold the car, and getting their fingers hit by the back wiper. They start hollering to fix it before moving the car. I started pushing buttons and moving the extra sticks on the steering wheel, but all they really got was shot by the wiper fluid! Luckily, we were laughing hysterically!
Because I am such a fabulous stick car driver, and I know special tricks with the emergency break, and because of my great defensive line in the back, we got the car on the road no problem. Crisis averted! And we made a new Czech friend!
Next time a bird's shadow crosses our dashboard, we will pretend it didn't happen!
We had just stopped at a castle that had some birds on display. My guess is that the somewhat shady man smoking a cigarette not too far away with the large leather gloves would put on a show with the hawk, and other birds of prey. However, when we were there they were all tied to their own stump, the hawk even had blinders on.
As we turned a corner in our car, I noticed the wingspan of a large bird swooping down to a tree, so I slammed on the breaks and threw it into reverse and turned down the hawk's street. We turned off the engine and rolled in, as to be sneaky! We got a pretty good look, before the bird noticed our bright red car (not great for wildlife stalking!) and flew off. But, we got to watch those huge wings power off into the sky.
I put the car back in reverse to turn around, and was watching for traffic out on our bigger road, when I felt the back tires slip off the road! We had already been commenting on how deep the ditches in the Czech Republic are, and now we were about to really find out! Luckily, I was driving so the other three hopped out, Jen without shoes, and got behind the car. We had cooked up our plan of attack when a Czech lady drove up and started shouting questions in Czech. When she realized we only spoke English, the pity and amuzement filled her face, and she also ran to the back of the car.
When I felt the wheels slip the first time, my hands had done a little flying for the emergency break, and in the process I had turned on the windshield wipers. So the girls are all in the back trying to hold the car, and getting their fingers hit by the back wiper. They start hollering to fix it before moving the car. I started pushing buttons and moving the extra sticks on the steering wheel, but all they really got was shot by the wiper fluid! Luckily, we were laughing hysterically!
Because I am such a fabulous stick car driver, and I know special tricks with the emergency break, and because of my great defensive line in the back, we got the car on the road no problem. Crisis averted! And we made a new Czech friend!
Next time a bird's shadow crosses our dashboard, we will pretend it didn't happen!
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Time keeps flying by!
I have been in charge of the transportation, accomodation and activity arrangements for the group for about a month now, and I can tell the stress is seriously impeding my creative side! I can't think of any good stories to tell, even though funny things happen everyday!
So, instead here are the facts.
We've been to Venice, Vienna, Slovakia and now Czech Republic in the past few days. We got stood up for the first time on couchsurfing!
We learned to live like a Hapsburg in Vienna.
I navigated Slovenian traffic like a pro!
We traveled on our worst night train ever!
We saw a small corner of the High Tatras, in Slovakia. Really small, especially through the rain clouds that have followed us ever since Jen's cousin, from Seattle brought her weather here!
The people in Slovakia don't speak English, and they don't like you reading their People magazines without buying! But they do have Dr. Pepper which was an incredibly redeeming factor!
We ordered and enjoyed a dish in Strebske Pleso that was called "pasta with mildewy and mouldy cheese"! Honest!
The next four days are to be spent driving around the Czech countryside checking out old castles and cathedrals. That is the plan, but seeing as how they don't believe in roadsigns, we'll see where we end up!
My parents and my sisters join in a few days for another big family adventure!
So, instead here are the facts.
We've been to Venice, Vienna, Slovakia and now Czech Republic in the past few days. We got stood up for the first time on couchsurfing!
We learned to live like a Hapsburg in Vienna.
I navigated Slovenian traffic like a pro!
We traveled on our worst night train ever!
We saw a small corner of the High Tatras, in Slovakia. Really small, especially through the rain clouds that have followed us ever since Jen's cousin, from Seattle brought her weather here!
The people in Slovakia don't speak English, and they don't like you reading their People magazines without buying! But they do have Dr. Pepper which was an incredibly redeeming factor!
We ordered and enjoyed a dish in Strebske Pleso that was called "pasta with mildewy and mouldy cheese"! Honest!
The next four days are to be spent driving around the Czech countryside checking out old castles and cathedrals. That is the plan, but seeing as how they don't believe in roadsigns, we'll see where we end up!
My parents and my sisters join in a few days for another big family adventure!
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