Hoi An
We've had fun here in Hoi An the past few days. This is the tailoring mecca of Vietnam, so a cloth and sewing shop on every corner - "Come in, I make good clothe for you. Fit you size." - is heard from every corner.
I've hung around Hoi An, checking out the old town and great art galleries yesterday and today took a boat to visit My Son. A Hindu temple complex, now in ruins of course. It is a very small Angkor Wat. The VietCong actually hid here because of the dense forest cover, they could not be seen from the air - so the US just bombed the whole thing leaving it pretty beat up.
Life in Vietnam is peaceful and easy. Very poor people, but dressed in Western clothes and so far anyone associated with the tourism industry speaks pretty good English.
I knew I was off the beaten path when last night at the "movie theater" the ticket lady couldn't tell me whether the movie was in English or not. I tried it out just for the heck of it, since the sewing ladies here go to bed by nine and the town shuts down. I thought I was in luck because the first three words were in English, when a loud Vietnamese voice comes over the loudspeaker to translate. It was pretty comical - the movie speaking in English and this guy talking over it.
We've had a nice three days here to relax and recharge. We leave for Ho Chi Min City tomorrow, so the extra energy will be necessary!
Tuesday, January 30, 2007
Monday, January 29, 2007
Photos of Week 1
We have photos posted from our first week of travel. Go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/anntrak/sets. to see our photos from Hanoi, Halong Bay and SaPa.
Perfume Pagoda
From Hanoi we took a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda. The scenery is very cool. I very strong lady row our boat for about an hour to get us to the dock where we then hiked about 1 1/2 mile uphill to the pagoda. On the way back Ann tried to talk the lady into letting her have a shot at rowing but either didn't understand or wanted a big tip.
Old Hanoi Cooking Class
We took a cooking class in Hanoi at a place down the street from Handspan (www.hanoi-cooking.com). For $20 you get a market tour, 4 hours of cooking instruction and some really good food. Mr. Rice will take care of you.
This is our stir-fry in the royal style. We actually made this!
This is our stir-fry in the royal style. We actually made this!
Halong Kayaking Crew
Meet our 3 day kayaking trip crew. Kurt "corn man"(from san fran) and Jodie "aussie" were great fun.
Kurt was reading a book called the Omnivore's Dilemma - check it out if you want to learn how left over bombs from world war II and corn are the cause of type II diabetes and obesity.
But we did eat some amazing food on this trip, best green beans of my life were cooked on the back of a small boat. That is the one nice thing about traveling is all of you food is fresh. It doesn't have any "extras" which exist an all our american food.
Kurt was reading a book called the Omnivore's Dilemma - check it out if you want to learn how left over bombs from world war II and corn are the cause of type II diabetes and obesity.
But we did eat some amazing food on this trip, best green beans of my life were cooked on the back of a small boat. That is the one nice thing about traveling is all of you food is fresh. It doesn't have any "extras" which exist an all our american food.
Saturday, January 27, 2007
Invasion of the Jackfruit
Watch out America!
Apparently VietNam is in the process of sending boatloads of Jackfruit to the states!
We took a fabulous cooking class yesterday, and while in the market our chef bought some jackfruit to taste.
After already having horrible experiences with jackfruit in Bangladesh, I couldn't wait - and warned my travelmates accordingly. However, there must be something to better soil and care here in VietNam because they all found the fruit quite tasty!
But - just keep your eyes peeled, because jackfruit should be appearing in your own friendly market!
The class was wonderful, and I've linked the recipes on the blog so you can cook along!
We left HaNoi last night, and arrived in Hue (Way) this morning. We have a great hotel with internet in the room! We are going to see the Imperial Palace and ride down the river to view the tombs this afternoon. We have a bit of rain, so should be an interesting day. The local people just spread that poncho over their whole scooter and keep on going - so we'll keep to the local custom.
Apparently VietNam is in the process of sending boatloads of Jackfruit to the states!
We took a fabulous cooking class yesterday, and while in the market our chef bought some jackfruit to taste.
After already having horrible experiences with jackfruit in Bangladesh, I couldn't wait - and warned my travelmates accordingly. However, there must be something to better soil and care here in VietNam because they all found the fruit quite tasty!
But - just keep your eyes peeled, because jackfruit should be appearing in your own friendly market!
The class was wonderful, and I've linked the recipes on the blog so you can cook along!
We left HaNoi last night, and arrived in Hue (Way) this morning. We have a great hotel with internet in the room! We are going to see the Imperial Palace and ride down the river to view the tombs this afternoon. We have a bit of rain, so should be an interesting day. The local people just spread that poncho over their whole scooter and keep on going - so we'll keep to the local custom.
Friday, January 26, 2007
Jeep Ride in Sapa Mud
We had an fun 30km jeep ride back to SaPA. Our jeep must have been left over from the war but took on the SaPa mud just fine. There were 4 of us crammed in the back seat for the bumpy ride.
Thursday, January 25, 2007
SaPa mud
Sa Pa
We have finally broken in our shoes, and are carrying some SaPa mud with us.
We went to SaPa to see the rice patty terraces, and get a closer look at the hilltribe minority people of VietNam. We did not know that would be watching Desperate Housewives in a bamboo hut, with a mud floor! Great American Ambassadors those housewives!
We took the night train to Lao Cai, and then an hour more in the bus to SaPa, northwest of HaNoi. We met our guide, whose name we could not even pronounce, so he gave himself the American name - Hero!
We trekked down through the hills, and villages to where we would stay with the Thay (TAY) people. Our family was actually Hero's cousin, so that was nice. Great tree house sort of thing, with lots of farm animals running around. The pig had just had piglets, so lots of snorting punctuated by the roosters who just compete for noise.
The next morning we hiked up to the Red Zhou Village, and saw their school and lots of little kids. As a teacher, the fact that little brothers and sisters, as well as chickens and ducks are allowed to roam the classrooms freely, is a little disheartening!
We rode in a jeep (probably left over from the war - or at least that's what the rust said) back to SaPa that afternoon. One van ride and the night train, and we are back in HaNoi!
And the adventures continue!...
We have finally broken in our shoes, and are carrying some SaPa mud with us.
We went to SaPa to see the rice patty terraces, and get a closer look at the hilltribe minority people of VietNam. We did not know that would be watching Desperate Housewives in a bamboo hut, with a mud floor! Great American Ambassadors those housewives!
We took the night train to Lao Cai, and then an hour more in the bus to SaPa, northwest of HaNoi. We met our guide, whose name we could not even pronounce, so he gave himself the American name - Hero!
We trekked down through the hills, and villages to where we would stay with the Thay (TAY) people. Our family was actually Hero's cousin, so that was nice. Great tree house sort of thing, with lots of farm animals running around. The pig had just had piglets, so lots of snorting punctuated by the roosters who just compete for noise.
The next morning we hiked up to the Red Zhou Village, and saw their school and lots of little kids. As a teacher, the fact that little brothers and sisters, as well as chickens and ducks are allowed to roam the classrooms freely, is a little disheartening!
We rode in a jeep (probably left over from the war - or at least that's what the rust said) back to SaPa that afternoon. One van ride and the night train, and we are back in HaNoi!
And the adventures continue!...
Monday, January 22, 2007
Halong Bay
We have returned to the big city after enjoying a fabulous three days in Halong Bay. We left Hanoi Saturday, and after 3.5 hours we reached Halong Bay City. We boarded our great Chinese junk boat, but had to jump over three other boats to get there - which is not easy with forty pounds on your back. We explored Amazing Cave the first day, and had some fabulous food on the boat. The next day we got our sea kayaks and had a great time discovering lagoons and fishing villages. We saw a few monkeys on the cliffside climbing through the trees. Jen asked our guide, Duc ("Duke") if the Vietnamese ate these monkeys, and he said yes. She asked, "How do they catch them, do they use traps?" He responded, "Yes, sometimes, ... Or they just use a gun."
We stayed the second night on CatBa Island in a great hotel. And then steamed back to Halong Bay the next day. This was a great start to our trip. We had some fun tourmates which made our first three days great!
We leave on the night train for SaPa tonight, where will be doing some trekking and staying with the hilltribes, who apparently have satellite dishes! Very remote!
We stayed the second night on CatBa Island in a great hotel. And then steamed back to Halong Bay the next day. This was a great start to our trip. We had some fun tourmates which made our first three days great!
We leave on the night train for SaPa tonight, where will be doing some trekking and staying with the hilltribes, who apparently have satellite dishes! Very remote!
Friday, January 19, 2007
And We're Off...
We arrived in Hanoi, Vietnam this morning at 10:30 am, Friday that is - we missed Thursday altogether. Our gracious host Mrs. Moon had a driver for us, which makes transfering locations in Asia a breeze.
We have a great hotel, the Golden Sun. Its in a fun neighborhood, just blocks away from the central park, which surrounds this great lake.
We took a long walk today, getting comfortable with our surroundings. Checked out the park, some good restaurants, and the "Hanoi Hilton" i.e. where John McCain, and before him Communist sympathizers spent years in prison.
The most fun part of the day has been learning to cross the street! Not an easy task at hundreds of scooters come flying at you. "Don't look, don't think - just walk" is our new motto. Apparently they are better at dodging us, rather than visa versa - and we all still have ten toes, so all seems to be good. After all, "if you can dodge a car, you can dodge a ball".
We are leaving early tomorrow morning for Halong Bay, for our three day junk boat/sea kayaking trip. We return, and leave immediately again for Sapa, where we will be trekking. We were told today they would give us lessons on the "slippery walking". Can't wait.
So, we're off to northern Vietnam - and considering we'll either be on a boat or staying with the hilltribes, it may be a while till we blog again.
Thinking of you all, and eating lots of noodles for you.
Till later.
We have a great hotel, the Golden Sun. Its in a fun neighborhood, just blocks away from the central park, which surrounds this great lake.
We took a long walk today, getting comfortable with our surroundings. Checked out the park, some good restaurants, and the "Hanoi Hilton" i.e. where John McCain, and before him Communist sympathizers spent years in prison.
The most fun part of the day has been learning to cross the street! Not an easy task at hundreds of scooters come flying at you. "Don't look, don't think - just walk" is our new motto. Apparently they are better at dodging us, rather than visa versa - and we all still have ten toes, so all seems to be good. After all, "if you can dodge a car, you can dodge a ball".
We are leaving early tomorrow morning for Halong Bay, for our three day junk boat/sea kayaking trip. We return, and leave immediately again for Sapa, where we will be trekking. We were told today they would give us lessons on the "slippery walking". Can't wait.
So, we're off to northern Vietnam - and considering we'll either be on a boat or staying with the hilltribes, it may be a while till we blog again.
Thinking of you all, and eating lots of noodles for you.
Till later.
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Thursday, January 11, 2007
Dreaming
So, this trip began with a wild discussion which turned into a wild idea on a roadtrip from Boston to Raleigh. Starting my third year in North Carolina, and my last as a graduate student, I realized I was going to have to either get a job or get out of town. I had done some small vacations here and there, always finding myself longing for more days - but the money and time would run out and I would return to the states.
Knowing that one plane ticket to Europe would cost you the same amount whether you spent two weeks or six months, I decided to stop spending my money flying back and forth. I would do all my work in one fail swoop and then have six straight months to travel.
Lucky as I was to have my parents in Aspen, where the money flows in from all directions, I headed home to save. And ski a little!
This six months of easy work, comparatively speaking (everything is easier when you used to be a teacher) has given me plenty of time to think about the trip. I've thought about how hot it will be, and how heavy my backpack will be, and how frustrated I will be when the good hostel is full and we are wandering around in the dark looking for a new place to stay! I also thought about how exciting it will be to stand in front of the Taj Mahal, and on the beach in Greece, and on the top of the High Tatras. But, I mostly thought about how six straight months of travel and vacating my work life, my American life, can change me. How this is an opportunity to develop patience beyond understanding, and gratitude for the smallest things, and a love for all people no matter how different their world may be from mine.
So here I am, at the end of my dreaming period - with my wild idea about to come true. I leave in one week and will be gone for 196 days. I head to Hanoi first, where some great adventures in the rice patties await me.
Knowing that one plane ticket to Europe would cost you the same amount whether you spent two weeks or six months, I decided to stop spending my money flying back and forth. I would do all my work in one fail swoop and then have six straight months to travel.
Lucky as I was to have my parents in Aspen, where the money flows in from all directions, I headed home to save. And ski a little!
This six months of easy work, comparatively speaking (everything is easier when you used to be a teacher) has given me plenty of time to think about the trip. I've thought about how hot it will be, and how heavy my backpack will be, and how frustrated I will be when the good hostel is full and we are wandering around in the dark looking for a new place to stay! I also thought about how exciting it will be to stand in front of the Taj Mahal, and on the beach in Greece, and on the top of the High Tatras. But, I mostly thought about how six straight months of travel and vacating my work life, my American life, can change me. How this is an opportunity to develop patience beyond understanding, and gratitude for the smallest things, and a love for all people no matter how different their world may be from mine.
So here I am, at the end of my dreaming period - with my wild idea about to come true. I leave in one week and will be gone for 196 days. I head to Hanoi first, where some great adventures in the rice patties await me.
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
Trip Intinerary
So, to start here is a general trip itinerary.
Jan 17 - Depart LA for Hanoi, Vietnam
Hanoi
Halong Bay
Hoi An
HCMC
Mekong Delta
To Cambodia - Feb 2
Siem Reap/Angor Wat
To Laos - Feb 7
Luang Prabang
To Thailand - Feb 12
Chiang Mai
Southern Thailand
Bangkok
To India - Mar 5
Dehli
Agra
Jodhpur
Jaipur
Calcutta
To Greece - Mar 29
Thessalonika
Meteora
Olympia
Delphi
Athens
To Turkey - April 9
Ankara
Cappadocia
Western Coast
Istanbul
To Bulgaria - April 24
To Romania - May 2
Slovakia
Austria
Vienna
Slovenia
Italy
Venice
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Czech Repulic
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Poland
Ukraine
To Russia - June 25
St. Petersburg
Moscow
TransSiberian Railway
Mongolia
China
Bejing
Return to US - July 25
Jan 17 - Depart LA for Hanoi, Vietnam
Hanoi
Halong Bay
Hoi An
HCMC
Mekong Delta
To Cambodia - Feb 2
Siem Reap/Angor Wat
To Laos - Feb 7
Luang Prabang
To Thailand - Feb 12
Chiang Mai
Southern Thailand
Bangkok
To India - Mar 5
Dehli
Agra
Jodhpur
Jaipur
Calcutta
To Greece - Mar 29
Thessalonika
Meteora
Olympia
Delphi
Athens
To Turkey - April 9
Ankara
Cappadocia
Western Coast
Istanbul
To Bulgaria - April 24
To Romania - May 2
Slovakia
Austria
Vienna
Slovenia
Italy
Venice
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Czech Repulic
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Poland
Ukraine
To Russia - June 25
St. Petersburg
Moscow
TransSiberian Railway
Mongolia
China
Bejing
Return to US - July 25
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